Showing posts with label History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History. Show all posts

Wednesday, 8 February 2023

Sojourner Truth, Abolitionist

 





Portrait of abolitionist Sojourner Truth, sitting with yarn and knitting needles








For scholars of Truth’s portraits, though, the symbolism is great. Truth’s handiwork conveyed an aspect of her social justice message, that knitting represented industry and advancement. She demonstrated the skill to people she met, many of them seeking refuge in the Freedmen’s Village in Washington, D.C., in the mid-1860s, and encouraged them to take up knitting. Her audience might produce items they sold or kept for themselves. Regardless, she believed that anyone would be “much happier” if usefully employed.



It is difficult to tell whether the shawls and caps Sojourner Truth wears in these portraits are knitted or crocheted, but in all four photos, she is knitting.  The Library Company notes that “[Sojourner Truth’s] knitting probably alludes to her promotion of the handcraft as an industry for advancement of former slaves.”  Curious about the significance of the knitting shown in the portraits, I further researched Sojourner Truth and her knitting.  It was difficult to find anything specific, but most helpful, informative, and current was a blog post on the Brooklyn Tweed website written by Ra Malika Imhotep, entitled “Part II: Crafting for Freedom,” published on July 28, 2020. In her rich analysis of the intertwined histories of Black people and handwork, Imhotep, a Black feminist scholar, confirmed that Sojourner Truth was active in a community that supported racial and gender equity in Northampton, Massachusetts called the Northampton Association of Education and Industry where abolitionists operated a silk mill, teaching escaped and former slaves skills that would help them learn to support themselves.  In addition to Imhotep’s article, I have shared other primary and secondary sources I encourage you to explore below.

https://centerforknitandcrochet.org/reflecting-on-sojourner-truth-in-honor-of-black-history-month-2021/

Although the dominant representation of the relationship between enslaved Africans and cotton is the agricultural labor of the field, there was a subset of cotton work that took place in the cloth house. The Homespun Movement is largely attributed to Anglo-American women who performed their patriotism during the American Revolution (1775 -1783) by refusing imported British materials and clothing by returning to traditional methods of weaving and spinning their own textiles. What gets cut from this story and is subsequently hard to research, is the way the labor of the enslaved enabled this valorization of domestic goods. What I do know is that some enslaved Black people, often described as elderly, disabled and otherwise unfit for agricultural work, were conscripted to the industrial labors of spinning cotton, weaving cloth and making clothes. 


Saturday, 22 October 2022

Black Dolls, Exhibit, New York Historical Society, 2022




Black Dolls explores handmade cloth dolls made primarily by African American women between 1850 and 1940 through the lens of race, gender, and history. The exhibition immerses visitors in the world of dolls, doll play, and doll making while examining the formation of racial stereotypes and confronting the persistence of racism in American history. It features more than 100 cloth dolls, alongside dozens of historical photographs of white and Black children posed with their playthings and caregivers. A coda explores 20th-century commercial dolls marketed to a broader audience of Black families seeking to instill pride in their children. Through these humble yet potent objects, Black Dolls reveals difficult truths about American history and invites visitors to engage in the urgent national conversation around the legacy of slavery and race.

Curated by Margaret K. Hofer, vice president and museum director, and Dominique Jean-Louis, associate curator

https://www.nyhistory.org/exhibitions/black-dolls-0




 

Tuesday, 18 January 2022

History


This is the corner of a hand sewn sail made in the 1900c. The craftsmanship and quality of the the canvas sails were made of hemp as well as clothing and ropes and the caulking used to fill gaps between planks among other things. Hemp is 3 times stronger than jute and was preferred because it was unaffected by salt water.

 

Suzani



What is a suzani?

A suzani is a large, hand-embroidered textile panel; the word comes from the Persian word suzan, which means needle. Originating from nomadic tribes in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other Central Asian countries, suzanis have become highly collectable and valued for their beautiful decoration and fine craftsmanship.



How was the suzani originally used?

The primary use of a suzani was within the yurt (a Central Asian nomadic tent), as a protective wrapping panel for textiles and belongings. They were also used as prayer mats, as bed sheets and for seating — pieces of furniture are seldom found in yurts, because they are cumbersome to move.

Suzanis had a symbolic significance, too. They were traditionally made by brides and their mothers as part of a dowry, and presented to the groom on his wedding day. They represented the binding together of two families, and were adorned with symbols of luck, health, long life and fertility.


                        PROBABLY BUKHARA, UZBEKISTAN, 19TH CENTURY


How are suzanis made?

Suzanis are made from cotton, sometimes silk. The pattern is first drawn onto the cotton, before being embroidered on narrow portable looms. They are usually produced in two or more pieces, meaning that they can be worked on by more than one person, before being stitched together.

Just four stitches — tambour, basma, chain and kanda-khayol — are used to realise a large variety of patterns, which traditionally include the sun and moon, flowers and creepers of the Asian steppes, leaves and vines, fruits (especially pomegranates), and occasionally fish and birds. These motifs were believed to imbue the suzanis with spiritual powers, offering protection or strength to their owners.

Which dyes are used?

Suzanis are coloured with vegetal dyes, although some more recent pieces may use synthetic dyes, which are not considered to give the same intensity of hue.

The natural dyes use imported indigo for blue, cochineal and imported madder for reds, saffron for yellow, a mix of indigo and a yellow tree fungus for green, and iron oxide and pistachio nuts for black. The dyeing process takes place in an outdoor vat, similar to those that can still be seen across the Maghreb.


 More images and info. Go to source link below.

https://www.christies.com/features/A-guide-to-suzani-textiles-8341-1.aspx




Uzbekistan is a Central Asian nation and former Soviet republic. It's known for its mosques, mausoleums and other sites linked to the Silk Road, the ancient trade route between China and the Mediterranean. 





 

Tuesday, 12 October 2021

19th Century Trade Cards

Cards were inserted in dry good packaging as a form of advertisement.






1893 African Americans Picking Cotton , Fleischmann Yeast Victorian Trade Card




Trade Card for Clark's O.N.T. Spool Thread
Text in lower right of card reads:
"The thread that binds the Union North to South."
O. N. T. ("Our New Thread") is a reference to their innovative use of cotton in lieu of silk thread.

 

Sunday, 25 July 2021

Victoria Finlay, Author


Color: A Natural History of the Palette
Discover the tantalizing true stories behind your favorite colors. For example: Cleopatra used saffron—a source of the color yellow—for seduction. Extracted from an Afghan mine, the blue “ultramarine” paint used by Michelangelo was so expensive he couldn’t afford to buy it himself. Since ancient times, carmine red—still found in lipsticks and Cherry Coke today—has come from the blood of insects.


 Also by Finlay and worth a read, Jewels: A Secret History




Thursday, 8 July 2021

Ashley's Sack


Cotton, thread. 
29 11/16 x 15 3/4 inches. 
Created: 1850's; embroidering added 1921
Discovered: Nashville, Tennessee, flea market, 2007




Time line by Mark Auslander




Slavery's Traces: In Search of Ashley's Sack
by Mark Auslander, Central Washington University, 2016
Link:

 


Book
A renowned historian traces the life of a single object handed down through three generations of Black women to craft an extraordinary testament to people who are left out of the archives.


Link to read article in Smithsonian Magazine by Nora McGreevy, 2021:

Wednesday, 3 February 2021

Earliest Known Pile Carpet



The Pazyryk culture is a Scythian[1] nomadic Iron Age archaeological culture (of Iranian origin; c. 6th to 3rd centuries BC) identified by excavated artifacts and mummified humans found in the Siberian permafrost, in the Altay MountainsKazakhstan and nearby Mongolia

The "Treasures of the Pazyryk Culture" of the Early Scythian Epoch includes the unique and world famous burial mounds (kurgans) and petroglyphs of the Pazyryk Culture. The Pazyryk Culture is one the related Central Asian cultures of the Scythian time. On the large area of the Altai Mountains it existed from the 6th to the 2nd centuries BCE. This culture has left clear evidences which are presented by unique burial complexes. The archaeological sites presenting cultural heritage of Pazyryk time include burial mounds (the frozen tombs of tribal nobility) and petroglyphs made in an "animal style".

Source and More:


Pile Weave - 
A looped or tufted surface that extends above the initial foundation, or 'ground' weave. 

 

Red

Cochineal is a scale insect and is found on prickly pear cactus. A rasping, sucking insect, it feeds on the tasty juices of the cactus. It produces a cottony white covering to protect itself from predators.


Go to link below to see images and read about cochineal history.

Cochineal Red: The Art History of a Color  

Elena Phipps The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, Winter 2010 Volume LXVII, Number 3 Copyright © 2010 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York






Source:
And also appears here:






I found image here: 
Would like to know true source. 







Source:





A form of communication in Inca Empire. 
Colored knots and cords. 


A model of khipu knots, representative of many khipus from pre- and post-Conquest Peru JON CHASE/ PRESIDENT AND FELLOWS OF HARVARD COLLEGE



Khipu or quipu

(kē′po͞o)

[American Spanish, from Quechua khipu, knot.]




A khipu on display at Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Source:





British Redcoats



Image Source:





Photos on processing cochineal and foods that contain the dye. 

https://www.businessinsider.com/how-cochineal-insects-color-your-food-and-drinks-2012-3


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