Elizabeth Silver, Designer

This video discusses the technical and more informal definitions of Surface Pattern Design and related terminology such as Surface Design, Textile Design, Product Design and Illustration.

 

Kiriko, Portland, Oregon, USA

Kiriko is a lifestyle brand forged from the spirit of Mottainai (勿体無い); a Japanese value that embraces one to waste nothing and recycle everything.  

 Their website contains a wealth of information along with a shop to purchase clothing. 

和柄 : Japanese Patterns 

Traditional Japanese designs, or "Wagara", are traditional Japanese patterns. They are history designs, each with a specific meaning, originally created for decorating traditional garments. The patterns that date back to the 8th century Heian period of Japan, are largely inspired by nature and were crafted using techniques from painting and Chinese calligraphy. They were worn with purpose for different seasons and occasions. However, in the last century this language of pattern was being lost as younger generations shed traditional dress for more westernized clothing. This spurred the use of "Wagara" in homewares and fashion accessories in an effort to prolong the dialect of these traditional Japanese patterns, making them just as relevant and usable today.

Go to link below to see visuals and learn about the symbols in Japanese patterns. 

https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-2

Warner Textile Archive, United Kingdom

A few examples. More to see. Go to link below. 

https://warnertextilearchive.co.uk/products/claremont/

 

Suzani

What is a suzani?

A suzani is a large, hand-embroidered textile panel; the word comes from the Persian word suzan, which means needle. Originating from nomadic tribes in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other Central Asian countries, suzanis have become highly collectable and valued for their beautiful decoration and fine craftsmanship.

How was the suzani originally used?

The primary use of a suzani was within the yurt (a Central Asian nomadic tent), as a protective wrapping panel for textiles and belongings. They were also used as prayer mats, as bed sheets and for seating — pieces of furniture are seldom found in yurts, because they are cumbersome to move.

Suzanis had a symbolic significance, too. They were traditionally made by brides and their mothers as part of a dowry, and presented to the groom on his wedding day. They represented the binding together of two families, and were adorned with symbols of luck, health, long life and fertility.

                        PROBABLY BUKHARA, UZBEKISTAN, 19TH CENTURY

How are suzanis made?

Suzanis are made from cotton, sometimes silk. The pattern is first drawn onto the cotton, before being embroidered on narrow portable looms. They are usually produced in two or more pieces, meaning that they can be worked on by more than one person, before being stitched together.

Just four stitches — tambour, basma, chain and kanda-khayol — are used to realise a large variety of patterns, which traditionally include the sun and moon, flowers and creepers of the Asian steppes, leaves and vines, fruits (especially pomegranates), and occasionally fish and birds. These motifs were believed to imbue the suzanis with spiritual powers, offering protection or strength to their owners.

Which dyes are used?

Suzanis are coloured with vegetal dyes, although some more recent pieces may use synthetic dyes, which are not considered to give the same intensity of hue.

The natural dyes use imported indigo for blue, cochineal and imported madder for reds, saffron for yellow, a mix of indigo and a yellow tree fungus for green, and iron oxide and pistachio nuts for black. The dyeing process takes place in an outdoor vat, similar to those that can still be seen across the Maghreb.

 More images and info. Go to source link below.

https://www.christies.com/features/A-guide-to-suzani-textiles-8341-1.aspx

Uzbekistan is a Central Asian nation and former Soviet republic. It's known for its mosques, mausoleums and other sites linked to the Silk Road, the ancient trade route between China and the Mediterranean. 

 

ESO STUDIO SHOP

More to see on the website. Link below. 

https://www.esostudioshop.com/

And check out this great blog post. 

https://www.esostudioshop.com/blog/lessons-in-overcoming-creative-blocks-the-macro-and-the-micro

Hand Block Printing

While printing designs onto fabric most likely originated in China about 4,500 years ago, it was on the Indian subcontinent where hand-blocked fabric reached its highest visual expression. Indians possessed unparalleled expertise in the secrets of natural plant dyes, particularly with mordants (metallic salts that both create color and allow it to adhere to fabric). A kind of mud resist-printing, called dabu, which allows areas of a design to be reserved from dye, also flourished here. A series of combinations of mordant and resist stamping and dyeing enabled Indian printers to create uniquely complex designs, coveted from Southeast Asia and palaces of Mughal emperors to the far-flung capitals of Western Europe. 

Above text from New York Times article. Read full article, link below:

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/18/t-magazine/block-print-jaipur-india.html

Watch the process in the videos below:

 

Surface Design Pattern

Designers use drawings from their sketchbooks 

as well as observations from life to create patterns.

Designer: Camilla Meijer

"With my illustrations, I want to be able to capture the magic that is found in nature's flowing lines and its natural dance." 

Source Link: https://www.creativebloq.com/graphic-design/how-create-surface-patterns-10-expert-tips-10134913

Designer's Website: https://www.camillameijer.com/collections/bo

Designer: Charlotte Pritchard

Blue Pool is an abstract watercolour study of pebbles underwater. Designed with soft watercolour brush strokes in a hand painted repeat, the colours reflect the light and depth of the sea bed. Abstract in its design, the calming blues provide a wonderful colour pop to a neutral or coastal colour palette. Blue Pool was created as part of a colour study exploration and is available in a variety of alternative colour schemes.

Source Link: https://www.contrado.co.uk/stores/charlottepritchard/watercolour/blue-pool-10061

Designer: Patricia Shea

A retro pattern of wildflowers in a crown design reminiscent of Victorian quilts - the balck ground is an elegant and modern twist - as always all originally hand painted in watercolours. Source Link: https://www.contrado.co.uk/stores/patricia-shea-designs/beautiful-and-varied-fabric-designs/victorian-wildflowers-fabric-10333

Designer: Charlotte Pritchard

A blend of watercolour and digital fine line detail creates Laced. A surface print inspired by the huge leaves and tropical plants found in the vast arboretum in Kew Royal Botanic Gardens in London. Through combining different motifs and hand-drawn elements, laced became a detailed layered print, full of intricacy and colour. The surface repeat is a detailed exploration of the botanical magic that inspired the print and collection. Dark teals through too soft blues to create an impressive coverage. 

Source Link: https://www.contrado.co.uk/stores/charlottepritchard/watercolour/laced-10026