Books

https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/textiles-community-and-controversy-9781350027510/

 

https://www.goodreads.com/en/book/show/930084.World_Textiles

This book in Proctor Library

Lenzing

Website

https://www.lenzing.com/sustainability/sustainability-management/circular-economy

Economy with a future

The resources of our planet are limited. For this reason, we are committed to establishing the circular economy as a sustainable, future-oriented concept in the industry and to protect the Earth in this way.

Sustainable and efficient use and processing of all raw materials is required to protect the environment. We have countered the wastefulness of business as usual with circular economy models. For example, we have shown how our environmentally responsible technology turns discarded garments into new sources of raw material for high-quality fibers.

What is circular economy?

The circular economy is oriented to nature as its role model. In essence, the concept of the circular economy aims to keep raw materials in a closed loop. In this way, resources are maximally used, the need for new ones is reduced, waste is avoided and the life cycle of products is increased. In short, the waste of today becomes the raw material of tomorrow - the same as in nature.

In this way, the circular economy differs from the current economic system i.e. the linear system, in which products are manufactured, used and disposed of.

Recycling textile waste

To address the enormous textile waste challenges of industry and society, Lenzing has developed a unique upcycling technology branded REFIBRA™. This technology utilizes pre-consumer cotton scraps and post-consumer garments from the textile value chain as raw materials.

 

Link below lists several companies involved in textile recycling and sustainability. 

https://www.lead-innovation.com/english-blog/sustainable-solutions-in-the-textile-industry

 

Hand Block Printing

While printing designs onto fabric most likely originated in China about 4,500 years ago, it was on the Indian subcontinent where hand-blocked fabric reached its highest visual expression. Indians possessed unparalleled expertise in the secrets of natural plant dyes, particularly with mordants (metallic salts that both create color and allow it to adhere to fabric). A kind of mud resist-printing, called dabu, which allows areas of a design to be reserved from dye, also flourished here. A series of combinations of mordant and resist stamping and dyeing enabled Indian printers to create uniquely complex designs, coveted from Southeast Asia and palaces of Mughal emperors to the far-flung capitals of Western Europe. 

Above text from New York Times article. Read full article, link below:

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/18/t-magazine/block-print-jaipur-india.html

Watch the process in the videos below:

 

Needlework Specimen Book, Anne Trotter, 1840

Summary

Unbound book of folded paper leaves containing a range of sewing and knitting samples, produced by Anne Trotter in 1840 at the Female Free School in Collon, County Louth in Ireland. Anne dated the book February 20 September 1840 on the inside cover which would make her 19 years old when she made the sample book.

Anne was a 'bounty' migrant from a large family and would have travelled with modest belongings. Finding room for the specimen book demonstrates its importance to her, as a connection to home, her childhood and her learned skills. The book has been handed down to the women in the family over the generations, showing its continued value as a precious family heirloom, until the book was donated to the Museum by Anne Trotter's great, great, great granddaughter.

Anne (also listed in public records as Ann) was born in Collon on 7 June 1820, daughter of Annie Davison (born in 1784 in Lisball, County Cavan, Ireland) and Joseph Trotter (born 1780 in County Cavan). She was the sixth of eight children (her youngest sister Rebecca died four days after birth) and the family were Protestants. She migrated to Australia on the barque the 'Dale Par'k, departing from Cork on 30 February 1844 and leaving London for Port Phillip on 21 July 1844 having arrived first in Gravesend on the 21 March. Anne was accompanied by her older brother Joseph (born 1809) and his wife Mary, and Anne's younger sister Eliza (born 1826). Anne is listed as being 23 years old, a domestic and travelled as a 'bounty' migrant. The family were travelling to meet their parents who were already living in Geelong. Records suggest that another brother also came to Victoria and one of her older sisters Maria migrated to Canada.

Anne married George Thomas Windsor and had two children - John Thomas, born in 1850 in Duneed near Geelong (who married Bridget Francis Nugent), and Elizabeth Jane, born in 1854 in Duneed (who married William Fleming). The family remained in the Victorian region west of Geelong around Mt Duneed, Colac and Camperdown. Her parents died in Colac in 1866 (Annie) and 1867 (Joseph). Her husband George died in 1893 in Barwon Victoria and Anne on 22 January 1910 in Victoria. She is buried at Mt Moriac west of Geelong.

Physical Description

Unbound book of folded paper leaves containing a range of sewing and knitting samples. Many pages and fabric pieces are discoloured and/or torn.

Significance

Statement of Historical Significance:
This beautiful object is a fine example of the sample books young girls produced in many countries to learn a variety of needlework techniques. It crosses themes of migration, gender, childhood, domesticity, handcrafts, and education.

Source:

https://collections.museumsvictoria.com.au/items/2027802

Desserto

Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez have developed a method of transforming cacti into a vegan leather that looks so realistic, you'd never guess it was made from this desert plant. They called their cactus vegan leather Desserto and it is made from cacti grown on their plantation in the Mexican state of the Zacatecas. The cactus is known for its rugged, thick skin, which makes it the perfect texture to simulate animal leather.

Image and text source My Modern Met. Read and see more. Link below. 

https://mymodernmet.com/vegan-cactus-leather-desserto/?fbclid=IwAR09Sa3hTuvcc-gvPUxHpz0HUZoVBrhg0TupODS0c2a96Kvb7EMCoI8zx8M

Website:

https://desserto.com.mx/

 

Visible Mending

Born from the Japanese art of sashiko, visible mending enables crafters to eschew fast fashion and make mistakes beautiful.

Miho Takeuchi, a traditional sashiko instructor and designer born in Japan and based in the United States, tells me via email that sashiko, which developed in poor communities in Japan’s Edo period, “was born from the necessity of mending and patching garments, beddings and household items. In ancient days, clothing and bedding were made from homespun fabrics woven from native fibrous plants such as wisteria and hemp and necessity demanded that this clothing be recycled for as long as possible.” It was only later, she tells me, that the technique evolved to include the elaborate surface-level designs and intricate patterns popular with visible menders today.

By Meghan Racklin  Mar 25, 2019, 8:00am EDT

Link to read full article: https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/3/25/18274743/visible-mending-sashiko-mending-fast-fashion-movement?fbclid=IwAR2rfFVdJenaz4-FjlxE5LvDKQzBBZV3whx_nJZV4xiMwqGHYa0mSlaxXgU

Jessica Marquez, https://www.instagram.com/miniaturerhino/

Marquez makes sure to emphasize this history in her teaching as well. “I talk a lot about sashiko as a Japanese technique, and I talk about how it was developed,” she explains. “It’s a resourceful technique; it’s birthed out of necessity and thrift, and we have everything.” Whereas mending was once the province of those who could not afford new clothes, today’s visible mending is the province, primarily, of those who can afford the time and attention it takes to make one’s clothes into a statement.

More To See

Search 

#visiblemending 

and 

#sashiko

on Instagram. 

Fab Brick

While she was a student in architecture,  Clarisse Merlet, founder of FabBRICK, notices how much construction is a polluting and energy-intensive industry, so she decides to find a way to built differently , especially with the use of raw material wastes such as plastic bottles, cardboard or plastic cups.

​

Then, Clarisse figured out that textile industry was poorly considered regarding recycling this material which has relevant properties in the area of construction knowing that cotton is considered as a powerful thermal and acoustic insulator. Then she had the idea of re-using discarded clothes by making it an innovative raw material. Based on the characteristics of the recovered textiles, she designs an ecological building material both thermal and acoustic insulator. Based on the characteristics of the recovered textiles, she designs an ecological building material both thermal and acoustic insulator.

Go to website to see the many images of Fab Brick in action. Link below. 

https://www.fab-brick.com/fabbrick-english

 

Smart Wool

Image Source:

https://gearjunkie.com/apparel/smartwool-second-cut-sock-recycling?fbclid=IwAR0oHblvMaA5N_PfsMNcXr7wcu7PjmLpo2QV2FWD7FItpx1TCDQMzci3v7c

And, now, old socks don’t need to get thrown away anymore.

Nope. They sure don't. We’re partnering with Material Return™ circularity platform to collect and deconstruct hard-to-recycle socks and turn them into new goods like dog beds—helping us reach our big sustainability and circularity goals.

Above info from Smart Wool, a company partnering with Material Return to recycle socks. Go to website for more information. Link below. 

https://www.smartwool.com/what-matters.html#/smartwool/the-second-cut-project

Surface Design Pattern

Designers use drawings from their sketchbooks 

as well as observations from life to create patterns.

Designer: Camilla Meijer

"With my illustrations, I want to be able to capture the magic that is found in nature's flowing lines and its natural dance." 

Source Link: https://www.creativebloq.com/graphic-design/how-create-surface-patterns-10-expert-tips-10134913

Designer's Website: https://www.camillameijer.com/collections/bo

Designer: Charlotte Pritchard

Blue Pool is an abstract watercolour study of pebbles underwater. Designed with soft watercolour brush strokes in a hand painted repeat, the colours reflect the light and depth of the sea bed. Abstract in its design, the calming blues provide a wonderful colour pop to a neutral or coastal colour palette. Blue Pool was created as part of a colour study exploration and is available in a variety of alternative colour schemes.

Source Link: https://www.contrado.co.uk/stores/charlottepritchard/watercolour/blue-pool-10061

Designer: Patricia Shea

A retro pattern of wildflowers in a crown design reminiscent of Victorian quilts - the balck ground is an elegant and modern twist - as always all originally hand painted in watercolours. Source Link: https://www.contrado.co.uk/stores/patricia-shea-designs/beautiful-and-varied-fabric-designs/victorian-wildflowers-fabric-10333

Designer: Charlotte Pritchard

A blend of watercolour and digital fine line detail creates Laced. A surface print inspired by the huge leaves and tropical plants found in the vast arboretum in Kew Royal Botanic Gardens in London. Through combining different motifs and hand-drawn elements, laced became a detailed layered print, full of intricacy and colour. The surface repeat is a detailed exploration of the botanical magic that inspired the print and collection. Dark teals through too soft blues to create an impressive coverage. 

Source Link: https://www.contrado.co.uk/stores/charlottepritchard/watercolour/laced-10026

Leilani Morales, Student Work

Applique

Natural Dyed Fabric, Yarn and Embroidery Stitches on Felt

Each piece 18" x 14"

Dyes used: indigo, madder, avocado, turmeric and spirulina. 

 

Laura Mackie, Student Work

Premature Grief

Paintings made with Butterfly Pea Flower in recycle frames. 

Largest frame measures 12" x 6"

The artwork, Premature Grief, is a meditation on my own fear of dementia in my life. Whether developing it myself, or being faced with it in my mother or partner, the diagnosis of Alzheimer’s in several women in my extended family has suddenly given weight to this threat. Presented as a series of images within five picture frames, illustrations reflecting the illness itself is punctuated with text describing my own fears concerning it. Imitating watercolor painting with Butterfly Pea Flower dye, the content of this work will eventually fade to white, due to the fugitive quality of the dye. In this, the work itself demonstrates the loss felt through dementia.

Above samples from turmeric, butterfly pea flower and hibiscus. 

Research Book

 

Blog Guidelines

For this course we will use the blog format to professionally document your work. The blog will appear clean, concise and contain in-process photos, artist statements, research and professional images of your final work. There is no fee to use blogger.com

You may use a blog you set up for a previous class. Please make sure to label all assignments so I can easily navigate and find assignments for this class. 

Email me your blog address before Feb. 14. I need your blog address to access your blog. Address must include ".blogspot.com".  Example: yourname.blogspot.com

After you email me your blog address, go to File Section in Canvas for formatting guidelines and a checklist of what needs to appear on your blog. 

How do I set up a blog? 

• You need a google account to set up a blog. 
• Search blogger.com and select the orange box that states "create your blog". Follow the prompts. 
• Use a professional name of your blog. Try to use your proper name as you will be establishing yourself as a professional artist with the blog. Also, if I need to recommend you or your work to anyone, I can send them your blog link. 
• ******Use the "simple" theme, all white********. Do not use a colored/patterned background. You will have to select a "theme" when setting up the blog. Scroll through the themes to find "simple" and then select the all white template. 

How do I know what to post on the blog? 

• Go to the File Section in Canvas. I composed a document for blog formatting and checklist of all info to appear on your blog. 

When are blog postings due?

• A few assignments require students to post research and sketches throughout the semester for presentation to the class. These dates are announced in class. The assignments are Surface Design Pattern, Diversity Banners and Personal Project. 
• The remainder of blog info is due during the final exam day and time.  

Julia Brown, Student Work

Site-Specific 

Embroidery installed on tree 

at Markland House, 

a historical site in St. Augustine, Florida

Markland House is the oldest building on the Flagler campus, built in 1839. In the beginning, the house was situated in the midst of orange trees, nestled in the heart of  town. Later, it became property of the city of St. Augustine, and in 1966, two years before classes began at Flagler College, the house became part of campus, hosting President Proctor’s residence, classrooms, and now, currently, faculty offices.

I wanted to create a caring tribute to the house for the resilience it has shown. I wished to honor the structure and the land on which it stands. I selected a magnolia tree in the center of the Markland lawn to display a stitched timeline of the home’s history. Each embroidery hoop represents a different event on the timeline. 

I used black embroidery floss to stitch each year in a vintage-inspired font. Looping black yarn through the bracket at the top of each hoop, I tied each hoop to the magnolia tree. Under each date is a single word describing the event. 

At the root of the tree is the date 3000 BC, which is the first known era that the Timucua people, North Florida’s indigenous tribe, were located in the St. Augustine region. At its root, the land belonged to them. 1839 is the year the home was built, 1924 marks the year the property was given to the city, 1966 is the year the property was given to Flagler College, and in 1978, the home was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

 

Personal Project Assignment Guidelines

 Introduction

The Personal Project is an opportunity for students to reflect on the processes and concepts gained during the semester. Students will use this knowledge to develop a concept for a textile based art work that reflects content and meaning. The concept will originate from the book The Golden Thread. This is a long term project that will demonstrate time, effort, content, meaning and innovation.

Select a category below:

• Political Activism
• In the form of a banner(s) or garment. 
• Installation 
• Indoors or outside. If outside consider the landscape. 
• Site-Specific
• The piece is made in response to a specific site and installed in the site. 
• Body Adornment
• Must reach beyond the basics of jewelry. Think exaggerated hats, collars.
• Research how different cultures represent body adornment.
• Product Design
• Produce a series of prototype(s) of a product that utilizes textiles.
• Sustainability
• A visual work that addresses sustainability, a 30-minute presentation or an event. 
• Includes "mending". 
• Performance
• Documented in a video or series of video.
• Wall Hanging
• Large scale or collection
• Soft Sculpture
• Large scale or collection
• Applique 
• Large scale or collection
• Book
• Utilizing fabric and textiles processes. 
• Garment
• Everyday wear, costume design, avant-garde
• Textile Tools
• Construct a tool(s) and use to make a sample. 

Examples of Student Work

Search right column index for "Personal Project Student Work". If on your phone and right column does not appear, scroll to bottom and click "web version". Make sure to click "Older Posts" in bottom right area to see all examples of student work. 

Or click on this link:

https://textilesatflaglercollege.blogspot.com/search/label/Personal%20Project%20Student%20Work

Examples of artists working with textiles/fibers. 

Search right column index for "Artists". If on your phone and right column does not appear, scroll to bottom and click "web version". 

Or click on this link:

https://textilesatflaglercollege.blogspot.com/search/label/Artists

In the right column you can also search specific categories such as "soft sculpture", "applique", "sustainability". 

Due Date

• Announced in class and on the course calendar. 
• This assignment includes a presentation of ideas and progress check in dates. Points deducted from final assignment grade for missed presentation and/or missed progress check-in. Progress must be tangible.

Step 1 - Research and Sketches. Place on your blog to present to the class. 

• Need three (3) different pieces of research. 
• 1. -A textile artist from this class blog. Include link with the image of the artist's artwork. 
• 2. - Another textile artist of your choice (from this class blog or another source). 
• 3. - Your choice. 
• Another textile artist or other sources such as a poem, short story, artist, song, TED talk, movie, an article, book or place. 
• I collected several online databases for research. I suggest you begin your research with an online database. Link here to see the many posts with links to textile databases and blogs. https://textilesatflaglercollege.blogspot.com/search/label/Research


• **Important - Must include a source link for all research. Always give credit to the source when posting on your blog, a public platform. 

• Two (2) different ideas in the form of rough sketches. 
• For each idea state the category you are interested in. See list above.  

Step 2 - Present Ideas To The Class

• Date announced in class and on the course calendar. 

Step 3 - Begin Working

• Progress check in dates announced in class and on the course calendar. 
• 3-points deducted from final course grade for not presenting progress on scheduled dates. Progress must be tangible. 

Diversity Banners Project Guidelines

Assignment

• Design and construct two banners. 
• Banner #1
• A collaboration with a Flagler College Student Club. Work with a member of the group to design a banner that reflects their mission. When the banner is complete, donate the banner to the club. I encourage you to work with a club you are not familiar with. Banner must include text. 
• Banner #2
• Design a banner that reflects your ideals. 
• Must use text. 
• Can incorporate other info. However, text should dominate .

Objective

• Recognize the significant use of textiles, in the form of banners, among social movements, past and present while gaining awareness of social issues that shape communities on a local and global context. 
• Engage with a campus community member(s).

Inspiration and History

Go to link in right column and click on category "Diversity Banners Inspiration and History". If you are on your phone and don't see a right column, scroll to bottom and click on "web version". Or go to link https://textilesatflaglercollege.blogspot.com/search/label/Diversity%20Banner%20Inspiration%20and%20History

Examples of Student Work

Go to link in right column and click on link for "Diversity Banners Student Work". If you are on your phone and don't see a right column, scroll to bottom and click on "web version". Or go to link https://textilesatflaglercollege.blogspot.com/search/label/Diversity%20Banners%20Student%20Work

Due Date:

• Announced in class and on the course calendar (File Section in Canvas). 
• This assignment includes presentation of ideas and progress check in dates. Points deducted from final assignment grade for missed presentation and/or missed progress check-in. Progress must be tangible. Refer to the course calendar for these dates. 
• This is a public art project. Late work cannot be accepted. Refer to course calendar for logistic dates. 

Guidelines for Club Banner and Personal Banner:

• Each Banner to measure 30" x 40".  This is the size after hems - make sure your fabric is an inch or two bigger. Purchase fabric that is 32" x 40". 
• Do not use the same fabric for the club and personal banner. 
• Do not use the fabric you dyed for the club banner as this fabric risks fading over time. May use this fabric for Personal Banner. 
• Hem the left and right side and bottom either by stitching or use fuse tape. 
• For the top, create an open hem, allowing one inch of space to insert a dowel (for hanging the banner). 
• Must include text on both banners. Make sure you do not include too much text, as this will result in letters that are small and difficult to read from a distance. A banner should be able to be easily read from a distance of 15 feet. 
• Consider how color, texture, shape, pattern, focal point, composition visually communicate content.
• Take in process pics to post on your blog. 

Club Banner. Guidelines:

• You are not producing a logo for the club. The club banner will dominate with words that reflect the club's mission statement. 

• As a class, we will decide who is assigned to a student club.

• Within 48 hours of your club assignment, review club's mission statement, prepare two quick sketches and contact all club members and faculty advisor via email (copy me on the email). You can find mission statement and club contacts in Saints Connect. 
• I prepared language to assist students with the email contact. I will email this language. 
• Super Important to contact within 48 hours. If club does not respond in a timely manner, you need to find another club so you can have a banner produced in time for the public installation of the banners. 

• Also Super Important - club needs to approve design before you start working on banner. This final approval should be confirmed in an email that includes the design. Copy me on the email.

• The club banner will consist of a background fabric and felt letters. 
• Student responsible for purchasing background fabric, can be new or recycled. Felt, fuse and irons provided in the studio. 
• Cut letters out of felt and fuse to the background fabric.
• Use Heat and Bond Iron on Adhesive to adhere the letters to the fabric surface. The adhesive and irons are available in the studio. 
• Important - Irons cannot be used outside of class time due to fire hazard. 
• I will demo in class how to adhere the felt letters. Video below demonstrates on variation of Heat and Bond - this example has a smooth, peel away on one side. 
• 
  
  
  
• After fusing felt letters to surface of fabric, strategically stitch felt letters to surface fabric to ensure permanent attachment. 

• After banner comes down from display (this date announced in class and on course calendar), make contact with your club to donate the banner. Get a picture of you, club member and banner. 

Club Banner. Step 1

• Club Banner - Participate in class discussion to select a club. 

Club Banner. Step 2

• Club Banner - Review club's mission statement and prepare two sketches. Remember, you are not designing a logo. Use text/language from mission statement. 

Club Banner. Step 3

• Make contact with your club via email, include the two sketches. I will send an email to the class with a language template to use for introducing yourself to the club. Copy me on the email. 

Club Banner. Step 4

• Continue to follow up with your club contacts and have design finalized within a week so you can purchase fabric and begin constructing the design. Remember, club must approve of design in an email. 

Club Banner. Step 5

• Begin working on club banner. 
• Important - letters need to be at least 6-inches so easily readable from approx. 15 feet distance. 
• Make sure to check course calendar for progress check in days. Points deducted for not presenting tangible progress. 
• Remember to hem left and right side edges, bottom edge AND make a sleeve at top of banner. Refer to guidelines above for both banners. 

    

Club Banner. Step 6

• Install club banner on a banner stand with your personal banner. Banner stands are provided. As a class we will work together to do this during a scheduled class time (refer to course calendar). We will then walk banners over to the library and student center for display. All students need to be present on this day. This is a public art project. Late work not accepted. 

Personal Banner. Guidelines:

• Collect three (3) pieces of research. 
• Complete two (2) different rough sketches. Text/language dominates the design. 
• Post research and sketches on your blog and present to class on assigned day. This date announced in class and is on the course calendar (File Section in Canvas). Make sure source links are included for research. 
• You may include as many fabrics as needed to communicate your idea. You also have the option to attach/hang 3D objects to the banner - make sure lightweight so as not to "sag" the fabric when on display. 
• Make sure the banner is primarily textile/fabric/fiber elements.  
• Large pieces of fabric and scraps available in the studio for those that wish to use. 

Personal Banner. Step 1

• Research and prepare sketches. 
• At least one piece of research has to be a textile artist. 
• Research can be various other sources such as a poem, short story, artist, song, TED talk, movie, an article, book or place. 
• **Important - Must include a source link for all research. Always give credit to the source when posting on your blog. 
• I collected several online databases for research. I suggest you begin your research with an online database. Link here to see the many posts with links to textile databases and blogs. 
• https://textilesatflaglercollege.blogspot.com/search/label/Research

Personal Banner. Step 2

• Personal Banner - Post research and sketches on your blog. Present to class on scheduled day. This date announced in class and posted on course calendar (File Section in Canvas). 

Personal Banner. Step 3

• Begin working on personal banner. Make sure to check course calendar for progress check in days. Points deducted for not presenting tangible progress. 
• Important - letters need to be at least 6-inches so easily readable from approx. 15 feet distance. 
• Make sure to check course calendar for progress check in days. Points deducted for not presenting tangible progress. 
• Remember to hem left and right side edges, bottom edge AND make a sleeve at top of banner. Refer to guidelines above for both banners. 

Personal Banner. Step 4

• Install personal banner on a banner stand with your club banner. Banner stands are provided. As a class we will work together to do this during a scheduled class time (refer to course calendar). We will then walk banners over to the library and student center for display. All students need to be present on this day. This is a public art project. Late work not accepted.