Tuesday, 12 October 2021

19th Century Trade Cards

Cards were inserted in dry good packaging as a form of advertisement.






1893 African Americans Picking Cotton , Fleischmann Yeast Victorian Trade Card




Trade Card for Clark's O.N.T. Spool Thread
Text in lower right of card reads:
"The thread that binds the Union North to South."
O. N. T. ("Our New Thread") is a reference to their innovative use of cotton in lieu of silk thread.

 

Friday, 30 July 2021

Host a Donation Bin

 

About ATRS

American Textile Recycling Service (ATRS) is the nation’s fastest growing donation bin operator . ATRS was founded with a profitable, global conscious mission to help communities reuse, renew and recycle clothing, shoes, toys and household goods. We provide easy and convenient Clothing & Shoe Donation bins in neighborhoods nationwide. We are committed to keeping textiles out of landfills, creating jobs here at home, and abroad. Our unique business model leaves an extremely small carbon footprint and a better planet for the next generation.



Read more on website:

http://atrscorp.com/about/

Timaree McKenny, Student Work

Installation
Seven natural dyed silks (each 6 foot in length) and scent (essential oils). 


Coming Soon
Video



Front view. 


Space between wall and silk. Essential oils placed on cotton pads, tacked to wall. 


Statement:

Who am I? As a human being. As a daughter. As a sister. As a friend. As an artist. My spiritual self is me. My inner-self is developed from reflection and love. I choose how I express my outer-self through observation and experience. 


Chakras create one's spiritual body, playing essential roles within all components of one's life. They create, sustain, and explore all feelings and emotions within yourself. 


For this personal project, I created my vision of my spiritual self, displaying who I am on the inside. With the use of silk, natural dyes, and scent, I designed my seven chakras. 


Natural dye as an ingredient and silk as a fabric connect directly to the human body in which all are creations from Earth's nature. Using the technique of natural dyeing, I see a correlation of the events within my life — do my best to prepare, react accordingly, and accept all results. The characteristics, soft and dependable, are represented by silk; a material that is soothing, calming, and trustworthy; this is how I describe myself as a human being. 


The designs, colors, and designated scent of each silk resemble the specific meaning of the seven chakras and how they resonate within me. I envisioned each of my chakras to create the designs based on how I saw them within my body and on a spiritual level. 


There are two chakras that I feel challenge me the most as a person. In the third chakra, solar / "I do," I created an intense crystalized design, soaked in a natural marigold dye to represent yellow, and selected a peppermint oil to embrace my confidence and self-esteem. 


For the seventh chakra, crown / "I understand," I created an off-kilter linear design, soaked in indigo and Roja natural dyes to represent violet, and selected frankincense oil to appreciate my spiritual connection and life purpose. 


Displaying my inner feelings and emotions to the outside world initially made me feel  vulnerable and sensitive. Once I was able to walk past each silk chakra and experience the scent, I let go of the negative thoughts and insecurities. Through reflection and love, I felt proud and empowered to share my inner-self with the world.



 

Kate Barker, Student Work

Examples of quilt stitching (by hand).
Batting is placed between two pieces of fabric to get the rise in stitch. Felt can also be used for a similar result. 





 

Monday, 26 July 2021

The Silk Roads: A New History of the World by Peter Frankopan


For centuries, fame and fortune were to be found in the west – in the New World of the Americas. Today, it is the east which calls out to those in search of riches and adventure. Sweeping right across Central Asia and deep into China and India, a region that once took centre stage is again rising to dominate global politics, commerce and culture.

A major reassessment of world history, The Silk Roads is a dazzling exploration of the forces that have driven the rise and fall of empires, determined the flow of ideas and goods and are now heralding a new dawn in international affairs.


 

Sunday, 25 July 2021

Red, White & Black Make Blue by Andrea Feeser


Like cotton, indigo has defied its humble origins. Left alone it might have been a regional plant with minimal reach, a localized way of dyeing textiles, paper, and other goods with a bit of blue. But when blue became the most popular color for the textiles that Britain turned out in large quantities in the eighteenth century, the South Carolina indigo that colored most of this cloth became a major component in transatlantic commodity chains. In Red, White, and Black Make Blue, Andrea Feeser tells the stories of all the peoples who made indigo a key part of the colonial South Carolina experience as she explores indigo’s relationships to land use, slave labor, textile production and use, sartorial expression, and fortune building.

In the eighteenth century, indigo played a central role in the development of South Carolina. The popularity of the color blue among the upper and lower classes ensured a high demand for indigo, and the climate in the region proved sound for its cultivation. Cheap labor by slaves—both black and Native American—made commoditization of indigo possible. And due to land grabs by colonists from the enslaved or expelled indigenous peoples, the expansion into the backcountry made plenty of land available on which to cultivate the crop. Feeser recounts specific histories—uncovered for the first time during her research—of how the Native Americans and African slaves made the success of indigo in South Carolina possible. She also emphasizes the material culture around particular objects, including maps, prints, paintings, and clothing. Red, White, and Black Make Blue is a fraught and compelling history of both exploitation and empowerment, revealing the legacy of a modest plant with an outsized impact.


 

Victoria Finlay, Author


Color: A Natural History of the Palette
Discover the tantalizing true stories behind your favorite colors. For example: Cleopatra used saffron—a source of the color yellow—for seduction. Extracted from an Afghan mine, the blue “ultramarine” paint used by Michelangelo was so expensive he couldn’t afford to buy it himself. Since ancient times, carmine red—still found in lipsticks and Cherry Coke today—has come from the blood of insects.


 Also by Finlay and worth a read, Jewels: A Secret History




Sashiko





Sashiko Kimono



History:

Sashiko originated about 400 years ago as a means of keeping warm and preserving clothing. In rural, northern Japan, winters were harsh and many people were extremely poor. They relied on producing their own clothing from hemp (cotton was prohibitively expensive for everyday garments) and were restricted from wearing certain colours, so used indigo dye as it was easily grown and was thought to protect against insects. 


​Putting two or more layers of cloth together and sewing with running stitch creates small pockets of air in the clothing, which trap warmth. Many beautiful, geometric patterns were stitched in undyed thread to create the classic 'cream on blue' look we associate with sashiko today. As well as being beautiful, this was also very practical as women would often stitch sashiko on dark evenings and the contrast meant they could see what they were doing! 

​Since an item of clothing sometimes had to last for three generations, dense stitching helped preserve the fabric, as well as providing a means of repairing with patches. 

​Sashiko fell out of favour in the 20th century as Japanese people began to wear Western clothes and did not want to be reminded of how poor their families once were. However, recent years have seen a revival of interest as people around the world have seen sashiko on the internet and want to have a go! In Japan, sashiko has also become more popular as a craft hobby. Interestingly, people in the West tend to want their sashiko to look 'traditional' and usually choose cream thread and indigo fabric, whereas in Japan this looks a bit 'old fashioned', so different coloured fabrics and threads are becoming more popular!


Thursday, 8 July 2021

Ashley's Sack


Cotton, thread. 
29 11/16 x 15 3/4 inches. 
Created: 1850's; embroidering added 1921
Discovered: Nashville, Tennessee, flea market, 2007




Time line by Mark Auslander




Slavery's Traces: In Search of Ashley's Sack
by Mark Auslander, Central Washington University, 2016
Link:

 


Book
A renowned historian traces the life of a single object handed down through three generations of Black women to craft an extraordinary testament to people who are left out of the archives.


Link to read article in Smithsonian Magazine by Nora McGreevy, 2021:

Tuesday, 15 June 2021

National Association of Colored Women's Club

Silk, wood, paint. 
A purple silk banner with gold fringe and the National Association of Colored Women’s Clubs' motto, "LIFTING / AS / WE CLIMB" painted in large gold letters. The banner was used by the Oklahoma Federation of Colored Women's Clubs. T Above the words is a painted design of three interlocking triangles, the center of which is filled with the two on either side in outline. The bottom of the banner is scalloped and has an attached length of fringe. The top of the banner has a sewn loop running its length for a rod (2010.2.1b) to be inserted. There is a strip of gold fringe sewn just below this loop. The rod is currently stored in place in the banner. It is painted gold at the ends and has a dowel inserted at the end of the proper left side with a hole for a dowel on the proper right side.

Our History

We are women of color, African American women, black women.

Long before the founding of the of the organization, our forbearers, had organized ourselves into self-improvement and charitable organizations. These organizations were led by women named Harriet Tubman and Helen Appo Cook (both NACW founders), Sojourner Truth, Anna Julia Cooper, Josephine St. Pierre Ruffin and a plethora of unnamed others whose lives were devoted to the struggle to free people of color from the bondage of slavery, illiteracy, and prejudice in an unforgiving world that treated them as less than human. It was also the time of Ida B. Wells Barnett and her Red Record, a voluminous documentation of the lynching of black Americans.

The Letter

In 1895 James W. Jacks, president of the Missouri Press Association, received a letter from Florence Balgarnie of the English Anti-Lynching League asking American journalists to help battle lynching. Jacks’ now infamous reply to her letter, attacked African Americans and specifically, black women. Jacks wrote that, “The Negroes in this country are wholly devoid of morality. They know nothing of it except as they learn by being caught for flagrant violations of law and punished therefor… They consider it no disgrace but rather an honor to be sent to prison and to wear striped clothes. The women are prostitutes and all are natural liars and thieves….Out of 200 in this vicinity it is doubtful if there are a dozen virtuous women of that number who are not daily thieving from the white people.”

The Founding of NACWC

Equivalent to the “shot heard round the world” triggering the American Revolution, the effect of James Jacks’ letter response to Florence Balgarnie’s solicitation of journalist support against lynching, catapulted black women into action.
A national “Call to Confer” sent to women’s organizations of color was issued by Josephine St. Pierre Ruffin, leader of Boston’s New Era Club.

At the conference, held in 1896 in Washington, DC, Mrs. Ruffin is quoted as stating, “The reasons why we should confer are so apparent…We need to talk over not only those things which are of vital importance to us as women, but also the things that are of special interest to us as colored women, the training of our children, openings for our boys and girls, how they can be prepared for occupations and occupations may be found or opened to them, what we especially can do in the moral education of the race with which we are identified, our mental elevations and physical development, the home training it is necessary to prepare them to meet [the] peculiar [special; difficult] conditions in which they find themselves, how to make the most of our own…opportunities, these are some of our questions to be discussed.”

Mrs. Ruffin’s statement is the foundation of the NACWC Mission. The enduring spirit of the statement has emboldened and inspired clubwomen, who have for nearly 120 years, given their energy, time, talent and their finances to serving their communities.





Above text and image from website:

National Association of Colored Women's Club






One of the most significant women’s clubs of all time was formed by black women for the advancement and empowerment of black communities. It is also the first and oldest national Black Organization, and it is known as the National Association of Colored Women’s Clubs.

For Black Americans, the post-abolition era was characterized by a shadow of violence, hardship, and oppression. Plagued by social issues like poverty, illiteracy, and poor working conditions, black communities recognized a resounding need for justice and reform. The rise of Jim Crow Laws gave way to heightened racism, then to widespread violence as lynchings threatened the safety and sovereignty of African Americans.

Especially in the South, white communities ignored the dire call to end racism and racial violence. In 1896, that call became even more urgent when a journalist named James Jacks delivered a horrifying response to a letter asking him to publicly condemn lynching. Jacks specifically attacked black women in his publication, describing them as “prostitutes” and “thieves” who were “devoid of morality”. His words demonstrated that much of the country was too enmeshed in it’s archaic, dangerous views of race to come to the aid of its black citizens.

Black women quickly realized that their greatest strength was in their identity. Their greatest weapon against racism was their own deep understanding of the plight of being black, woman, and oppressed in post-abolition America. In this time of radically heightened hostility, it was clear that black women themselves would have to begin the work toward racial equity- and they would have to do so by elevating themselves first. This realization prompted the coalescence of the National Association of Colored Women (later known as the National Association of Colored Women’s Clubs).

The founding members of NACW rejected Jacks’ venomous narrative because they valued the strength and virtue of the black woman and knew that she was the key to moving Black Americans forward in society. The National Association of Colored Women was born out of this knowledge. Mary Mcleod Bethune officially organized the NACW in 1896. She would later become the first black female to head a federal office. Mary Church Terrell, a lifelong advocate for desegregation and women’s suffrage, acted as the Association’s first President. Another founding member was Josephine St Pierre Ruffin, who also created the very first black women’s newspaper. Other iconic members of the NACW are Fanny Coppin, Harriet Tubman, and Ida B. Wells.

The NACW’s founding principle was “Lifting as we Climb”, which echoed the nature of its work. Core members of the Association were educators, entrepreneurs, and social activists. They believed that by elevating their status as community organizers and leaders, black women could elevate the status of their entire communities. The Association focused on improving the public image of black women and bolstering racial pride. An empowering social space, the NACW encouraged black women to take on leadership roles and spearhead reform within their communities.

In the coming decades, the NACW focused much of its efforts on providing resources and social services to some of the most powerless members of society. Social welfare projects centered on a variety of youth issues.The Association built schools to offer better educational opportunities to children and to protect them from entering the juvenile justice system. The women of NACW also aided the elderly by funding and establishing assisted living homes. The Association was committed to promoting good moral standing and erasing harmful, racist stigmas about their community. Thus, they encouraged all members of the community to embody acceptable standards of hard work and virtuous behavior. The NACW provided access to many other resources, including daycares, health clinics, job trainings, and parenting classes.

The NACW also hoped to provide better opportunities for black women to advance as professionals and leaders. They established programs to assist women migrating from the South, offering affordable housing and job opportunities. Politically, the NACW took a strong stance against racist legislation. Mary B. Talbert, a founding member, was one of the most influential voices in the fight for passage of a federal anti-lynching bill. During this fight, the NACW fundraised, organized, and ultimately helped to further the agenda of anti-lynching activists. The Association also participated in the pursuit for women’s suffrage. With the NACWC behind them, black women influenced legislation, education, youth issues, economic empowerment, literacy, and activism as they worked tirelessly to meet the needs of Black America. In the past century, the NACW has secured tremendous progress and justice for African American communities. Today, the organization continues its devotion to the betterment of those communities. Now known as the National Association of Colored Women’s Clubs, the Association includes chapters all over the country and is primarily active in fundraising, education, and health and social services.

When great women convene for a cause, it is often found that the strength of their numbers transcends the power of solidarity. Women who share a common goal quickly realize the political, economic, and social power that is possible with their shared skills and talents- the power to transform their world. The National Association of Colored Women’s Clubs is an inspiring testament to the power of united women.

Above image and text source Women's Museum

Gilbert Baker, Artist

Note:
While we are not designing flags, the history of the Pride Flag is significant 
and the design has been adopted to the banner format. 



Above image from Gilbert Baker Foundation


Revel in the First Pride Flag, Long-assumed Lost, in San Francisco

The first Rainbow Flag, designed by artist and activist Gilbert Baker, was raised in 1978.

 
The first Rainbow Flag, adopted by the LGBTQ community as a symbol of pride and solidarity, was raised on June 25, 1978, at the San Francisco Gay Freedom Day Parade. It was created by Gilbert Baker, an artist and queer activist, who described his rainbow-striped design as “something beautiful, something from us … it really fits our diversity in terms of race, gender, ages, all of those things.” That day, two pride banners replaced the United States and United Nations flags hoisted at the United Nations Plaza.

The flags constitute a priceless piece of queer history, but until now, they were both presumed lost. This April, a 10-by-28 feet-long segment of one of Baker’s authentic pride flags entered the collection of the GLBT Historical Society in San Francisco, where it was unveiled last week as part of the ongoing exhibition Performance, Protest and Politics: The Art of Gilbert Baker.


The segment of one of the original rainbow flags created for San Francisco Gay Freedom Day 1978 rests in its case at the GLBT Historical Society Museum. (photograph by Andrew Shaffer, courtesy GLBT Historical Society)

The two flags flown during the 1978 parade were badly mildewed and damaged during storage at the San Francisco Gay Community Center in the years that followed, but Baker secretly managed to salvage a scrap of one of them. When the artist died in 2017, the historic piece of fabric landed in the hands of his sister Ardonna Cook, who loaned it to the Gilbert Baker Foundation two years later for the June 2019 Stonewall 50 Pride Parade in New York City. At that time, the Foundation was in the dark about the banner’s fascinating origins.

After the 2019 event, the fragment of the flag was folded and kept in the Manhattan home of Charley Beal, the foundation’s director. That summer, Beal was coincidentally contacted by James Ferrigan, an expert vexillologist — or flag historian — and one of Beal’s collaborators in the 1970s who was on the hunt for the long-lost segment. Upon hearing Ferrigan’s description of the fabric scrap, Beal realized it was the very same banner that was sitting in storage in his home.

Following authentication, the iconic relic was donated to the GLBT Historical Society, a public museum and archive focused on promoting a deeper understanding of LGBTQ history, culture, and arts.

“People are moved to tears because of how important and significant that first flag-flying in 1978 was to them,” the museum’s executive director, Terry Beswick, told the Guardian.

Unlike the mostly six-color Rainbow Flags seen today, Baker’s original design featured eight stripes with a pink strip at the top — a nod to the inverted pink triangle, a badge enforced by Nazi Germany during its persecution of gay men that has been reclaimed by the LGBTQ community. The last few years have seen a wave of new LGBTQ banners: in 2017, the city of Philadelphia introduced its own “Philly Pride Flag,” which incorporates black and brown stripes to represent the Black and Latin communities. Others flaunt the baby pink and blue colors of the Trans Pridge Flag, which subverts the traditional hues associated with gender as assigned at birth.

Beswick notes that Baker deliberately chose not to trademark his creation and “died a pauper, despite the fact that millions and millions of dollars have been made using the rainbow as an LGBTQ+ symbol.”

“Gilbert not only created a symbol of our movement, but that creation has actually pushed our movement forward,” Beswick said.

Article above from HyperAllergic  

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